Things we did in Paris: Montmartre walk & how Paris feels 20 years later

Hi all, sharing the things we did in Paris – the first day of our 2 weeks France road trip – you can click and check out our full travel route from Paris to north-western France.

Having visited Paris a couple of times decades ago, I will also share how the city feels different to me now. Without any further ado, let’s check out what we did in Paris! 

Things to do in Montmartre

 


Day 1: Singapore to Paris 

We took a red-eye flight with Singapore Airlines. It had been a while since my last long-haul flight, and I was surprised that the second meal wasn’t served until 11 hours after the first. That was breakfast served at 1pm Singapore time – I was famished, man!

I’d considered asking for snacks, but the crew mentioned that meal service would begin shortly. Unfortunately, “shortly” turned out to be another hour’s wait. What a great start to a “weight-loss” trip to Paris! LOL!

SIA Service Recovery: Once the crew realised how hungry I was, they exercised some flexibility and served my meal ahead of others. Appreciate the service recovery!


Getting from CDG Airport to Paris City Centre

After landing in Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, we were surprised to spend one hour clearing immigration due to long queues and unclear signage. We then took a shuttle train from T1 to T2 to reach the Airport Metro Station.

Exercise vigilance in Paris. The airport shuttle’s public service announcements warned passengers against pickpockets. Here’s my thought – if the authority openly acknowledges the pickpocketing issue, it must be quite real and rampant.

Another thought, what are they doing about it? 

How to get from Paris airport to city centre

At the Airport Metro Station, we bought a train ticket (€15 each) to get to Gare du Nord station, in Paris central. At S$22, I thought that’s quite expensive for a ride lasting less than an hour.

Airport Transfer: For those travelling in larger group, it may be worth considering a private transfer. Check out the price here!


First impression of Paris (after two decades)

After alighting from the train at Gare du Nord station, we stepped into an elevator and were hit by a strong pungent smell of urine. That was surprise number three of the day.

As if there weren’t enough surprises already, we were welcomed by sights of police officers, demonstrators and lots of large security vehicles after stepping out of the station. It was 18 Sep 2025 – we were caught in a nationwide general strike aka “Block Everything” movement

Traffic was bad due to the demonstration. In fact, public transport at some areas came to a standstill. Luckily, our hotel was within walking distance.

We walked through what looked like Little India back home, and deposited our luggage at Sure Hotel by Western Paris Gare du Nord .

Hotel around Gare du Nord Station in Paris
Vicinity near Gare du Nord train station

Let’s head to our first attraction in Paris – we deliberately chose a nearby attraction given the traffic situation. 

Paris Now vs Then: This was my third visit to Paris – the previous visits were made two decades ago. I definitely felt so much safer back then, and weren’t bothered by hygiene or theft issues. Sadly, things have changed so much!  


First thing we did in Paris: Montmartre artist village  

Our first stop in Paris was at Montmartre, a hilly and charming “artist” district, known for cobblestone street, cafes and portrait painting. Did you know that Picasso and Vincent Van Gogh used to stay here? 

Place du Tertre, Montmartre

 

Great view at Basilique du Sacre-Coeur (Church)

A steep flight of stairs brought us to Basilique du Sacre-Coeur de Montmartre (white church) that offered sweeping view of the city.

You can enter the church and climb to an even higher spot if you are keen, at a cost. But the queue was quite long during our visit and we weren’t very much into religious buildings.

Basilique du Sacre-Coeur, Montmartre
Long queue outside the church
Basilique du Sacre-Coeur, Montmartre
Panoramic view of Paris city from where we stood, outside the church

Dine the way French do, at Place du Tertre

Our first lunch in Paris was truly memorable at Place du Tertre, a cafe-lined cobbled square in Montmartre.

Place du Tertre, Montmartre
Having our lunch while people-watching

Seated at Chez Eugene Restaurant, we people-watched and enjoyed our orders – steak for him and “Fish dumpling with crab sauce” for me. From where we sat, we could also see artists at work. 

What to eat in Paris
Here’s our first meal in Paris, at Montmartre

The total lunch bill came up to €65. By the way, the man’s coke order at €7.50 was way more expensive than my glass of red wine!

Um…we are talking about a S$11 coke. It totally deserves a photo of its own.

Expensive coke in Paris
The exquisite glass of coke

A stroll through Montmartre village

After lunch, we strolled through Montmartre’s quaint, narrow and winding street. Though touristy, I truly enjoyed Montmartre – it’s such a picturesque town.

You can also shop and browse artsy souvenirs.

>> MUST READ: 2 weeks France itinerary beyond Paris

Things to do in Paris
Yes, I bought one of these tray mats
Things to do in Montmartre
Some cute artsy pieces in a random store

Other than shopping, we also stopped by a few notable spots:

  • Unique statues, including Le Passe-Muraille (the “man-in-the-wall”)
Things to do in Paris
The man coming through the wall!
  • Rue de l’Abreuvoir, said to be the most picturesque street in Montmartre
Things to do in Montmartre
Picturesque winding street
  • La Maison Rose – an iconic pink building that houses a popular French restaurant
Things to do in Montmartre
The iconic pink building in Montmatre

The only sight we couldn’t appreciate was The Wall of “I Love You”. Other than featuring “I love you” in multiple languages, I didn’t find it visually appealing – though it was clearly a hit with other tourists.

Love hassle-free travel? You can skip the logistics hassle and visit 30 Paris attractions with this Best of Paris day tour

Things to do in Montmartre
The wall of “I Love You” was blocked by fence and ugly netting

Traffic disruption in Paris forced us to stay on

By late afternoon, we were ready to leave the lovely Montmartre. But traffic disruption (thanks to the “Block Everything” protests) forced us to stay on as the train wasn’t operating.

Kozy Cafe, Montmartre
Having coffee at Kozy Cafe, right outside entrance of a metro station

We passed the time at Kozy Cafe, enjoying a glass of iced latte while waiting for the metro to resume service.

But the transport app kept pushing back the restart time. No choice – we decided to walk back to our hotel.

Toilet Tip: Toilet is mostly chargeable in Paris. You can strategically plan your toilet break when having a drink or meal. Free & public toilets may be too challenging (smell- and sight-wise) to use based on our experience.  


More Paris sights & impression

The long walk back from Montmartre to our hotel near Gare du Nord station exposed us to random and unscripted Paris everyday sights. 

A great pastry find in Paris

Over our 2-week France trip, only two pastry shops truly stood out. One of them was Pain Pain, located near Montmartre (see location).

Great bakery in Paris
Lovely bakeries from Pain Pain

The few item we bought – including quiche and almond pain au chocolat – were generously filled and delicious (€11).

Great bakery in Paris

 

Great bakery in Paris
Check out the generous filling

So easy to witness petty theft in Paris

On our way back, we passed by a Carrefour supermarket. While shopping, I saw a man hid a can of soft drink within his jacket.

Coincidentally, my partner also witnessed his first petty theft within the same store – he saw a man openly stole a packet of biscuits while standing next to the cashier. Wow! That’s blatant!

Many tents under the bridge (Paris impression)

Continuing our long walk back to the hotel, we saw rows of tents lined beneath a bridge. A quick Google search revealed that this is not an uncommon sight in Paris. Many of these makeshift shelters are home to vulnerable populations, including migrants.

This was definitely a stark contrast to the Paris I remembered from decades ago. And with that, we wrapped up Day 1 of our France itinerary. We would return to Paris on Day 13 after making a loop through north-west France – more to come then.

 


What’s next?

On Day 2, we drove out of Paris towards the Normandy region. Stay tuned, and click below to follow the rest of our journey.

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